Utvorda to Sønnaholmen. 35 km, 4.5 km/hr average speed. Start 1030 arrive 1930
The weather was better in the morning, but not good. Still we decided to try to get some km out of the day. But first we had breakfast with our German friends. Then we went down to the reception to put on dry suits and pack the boats.
It was pouring down and Jorg – a true Swiss gentleman- appeared with and umbrella to help us, or more precisely Karianne.
We bid farewell to our very hospitable hosts Anja and Sven. Jorg helped us carry the boats, and off into the headwinds we went.
We spent the entire day in winds around 6-7 m/s and precipitation varying between rain and downpour. We navigated islands and islets to get maximum shelter and we put in some hard work. Still we only made 4.5 km/hr progress. A low for RSKE.
As we paddled the exposed part outside Oksbåsheia the wind picked up and we also paddled through 1.5 m ocean swell. At the top of the swell we could see land and the top of the lighthouse, at the base nothing but a wall of water.
As we finally approached the lighthouse any hope that the wind would subside so that we could get around Buholmråsa lighthouse and into sheltered waters had to be abandoned.
When we finally it was blowing 10 m/s headwinds and the time was 1930.
Instead we hoped that we could get inside one of the buildings on the lighthouse. Everything was closed. But there is this thing called internet. We googled the place. Bingo! It was for rent and there was a telephone number. Maybe the key was hidden on the island? We called to explain our situation.
Jorid answers the call. No such luck. The key was on the mainland…., but hang on a minute maybe she could find someone with a boat to bring us the keys. 1930 on a wet and windy evening, we wondered what the odds were.
The odds turned out to be excellent. Soon we got an sms: Keys are on their way. And not long after we saw a boat approaching. Sure enough the boat carried Rune (Hansen) boat owner and Magnar (Sæter) holder of keys.
Soon we were inside the old “lighthouse matsters” house. Mangnar and Rune explained how the lighthouse accommodation worked, as follows:
The small community of Sætervik (population 60) had established a small company to keep the local shop alive. Basically looking for income to run and maintain the shop building. So amongst other things they had come up with an arrangement with Kystverket: Kystverket would pay for maintaining the lighthouse ( this they must do anyway), but in return for helping out with minor maintenance and operations the “Sætervik shop company” gets all the income from the rental of accommodation.
Nothing from us though, since they had to clean the houses anyway tomorrow to get ready for the weekend, we stay for free. Or better, Magnar gave us the remaining chocolate cake from this morning’s meeting with Kystverket. And showed us the shower. And the coffee.
A very very friendly and upbeat end to a pretty wet, windy and hard day. Thanks!!
Tomorrow we plan to paddle on toward Stokkøya. There will be wind, but more sidewind or even tailwind. WP
The Russian - Scandinavian Kayak Expedition 2018 -2022 